Back in the Air Soon

I think I explained in my last post that I moved to Florida a year ago. I haven't flown that whole time but I've got the bug again. I have three planes ready to fly, well, I had three and will have three ready again soon. I went to fly a Tower Hobbies .60 sized trainer that I just got together. There is absolutely nowhere to fly around me here in the Orlando area without having to go to a modelport. There is a really nice one called Tangerine field that I am going to join right after I renew my AMA membership but I want to fly in the meantime. It takes time to get set up with them to fly. I have to attend one club meeting and get some kind of ID card plus I have to be a member of the AMA. I miss the Utah Modelport. It was a great place to fly and you didn't have to be a member of the AMA. I bought a Utah state park pass for about $60 a year and flew to my heart's content!

Well, this morning, I took this .60 sized trainer out to a rural road and thought maybe I could get it in the air there but it was narrow with curbs on both sides of the road and six foot marker sticks on the side of the road. I thought landing might be a little tricky but I was up to the task. I throttled up and a crosswind caught the plane and I didn't have enough rudder to kick the tail around. I had entertained the notion of making that rudder bigger because it is small. Well, the main gear impacted with the curb and knocked them loose which is no big deal, then the airplane flipped over and as soon as everything started slowing down the airplane unfolded and came apart. It was like I was watching a cartoon! I know that many of these ARFs aren't glued very well and this was no exception. There were several joints that were held together only by the covering and boy does that stuff stick. I don't know what they used but it is NOT Monokote! I had also thought about doing surgery on this thing and beefing it up but I really didn't want to ruin the finish and to be very honest, I just wanted to get something in the air!

I brought the pieces home and I've fiberglassed the front of the fuselage where it broke in half. I will also beef up the main gear. I had converted this from a tricycle gear to a taildragger and plan on putting some floats on it as soon as I have them fiberglassed. If i can get a good day in tomorrow, I should be able to get the main gear reattached and then get the sides of the plane recovered. The rudder and elevator servos are still in place and I will have to replace the throttle servo which is no big deal.

If anybody knows of any good places to fly near Winter Garden, Florida, let me know! There are some nice golf courses in the area and the fairways would be PERFECT but I don't think anyone would let me fly off of them!

Finishing Wing Stands with a Little Help

I got a little help finishing my wing stands. Nephew Cameron (smiling) was visiting from Houston so I put him to work drilling brackets for my Rudi Greyling of South Africa inspired wing stands. Austin had previously helped me with welding the bottom feet. I painted one set red and the other set green. For those unfamiliar with aircraft or boat lighting, red is for the left wing or port side and green for the right or starboard side. The memory aids I was taught were: "red, right, returning" - if the red light is on the right, the aircraft or ship is pointed toward you and "port wine" - port is left in boat speak and port wine is reddish. I figure the simple color coding might prevent me from reversing parts.

I only need to bolt them to the floor and I'll be ready for the wings. Location will be important as I plan on building both wings at the same time but I want to have enough room to park a car in the garage. They're scheduled to ship during the week of the 18th of January.

Here We Go Again!

Well, things have certainly changed since my last post. I moved to Orlando, Florida in December of 2008 and got married in March 2009. Since I have been here, I have not flown. For some reason the bug bit me again. I have a Bridi Dirty Birdy that I built while I was still in Salt Lake City. I flew it one time but had a couple problems. First, the retractable nose gear linkage came loose just as I pulled back on the stick. I was able to get the plane into the air but it was very nose heavy. It was my fault, I checked the center of gravity in the wrong place. All of you experienced pilots know that it is better for a plane to be a little nose heavy than to be tail heavy but I really had to keep my speed up to keep the nose up on the plane. About five minutes into the flight, the engine died and I came in deadstick but couldn't make the runway so I put it down in the grass. The wing ripped off but the only damage was one of the two dowels that attaches the wing's leading edge. I haven't touched the plane since and that has to have been almost three years ago.

I pulled the plane out of the garage the other day and cleaned it up. I got the nose gear hooked up again and made some adjustments on the servo throws. I fixed the dowel on the wing. I also found that one of the head bolts on the Supertiger .90 had vibrated out. A quick trip to the hobby shop and that was fixed. Also, the carburetor had seized up, so I pulled the engine out of the plane and fixed that. If it flies anything like any other Bridi airplane it will be a nice flyer. It is powered by a Supertiger .90 which should be plenty of power. Power should not be an issue here in Florida when I am flying right at sea level. In Utah, we flew at right around 4,000 feet above sea level. Where I grew up in Texas, the elevation was 3,000 feet. The lowest altitude I have ever flown in was at Vegas and it was around 2,000 feet asl. I am really excited to see how things fly here. I am sure the planes will fly slower and land slower.

I have a Phoenix Models Giles 202 that I have flown quite a bit. The plane is one of the Vietnamese ARFs that is on the market. The plane is well built but comes with terrible instructions. The tank that is supplied with the kit is way too small too. As far as flying, it is definitely NOT a beginner's plane. The rolls, on high rates, are blazingly fast! I have never seen anything roll like this plane. Sometimes I am afraid I will rip the wing right off of the fuselage in a quick snap roll so I do the snap rolls more like a full scale plane, slow down, then snap it. To land this thing, you have to come in under power and really grease it in! Don't worry about this plane floating! Instead of the recommended .46 sized engine, I loaded the Giles with an O.S. .61. That was mainly due to the elevation in Salt Lake City. We'll see what it does here at sea level.

Both planes fared well on my 2,500 mile trip. The covering is scuffed badly in spots but I can live with that. There were no punctures to the covering at all and I was very surprised about that.

I would like to find a free place to fly, at least to test fly this Dirty Birdy, but it looks like I am going to have to join a club. The closest one to me and the only paved modelport in Central Florida is Tangerine Field. Bob Violet, owner of BVM Jets does all of his jet testing at this field because the runway is 750 feet long! Cost to join Remote Control Association of Central Florida is $160 a year which is not too bad. I also have to rejoin the Academy of Model Aeronautics since I let my membership lapse. Cost for that is $58 per year. I remember flying off of cow pastures and just about any place that was flat in the Texas Panhandle. In Salt Lake, we had the Utah Modelport which was a pretty nice paved runway and a state park plus we had a salt flat near Grantsville, Utah that was free to fly off of.

I will post photos of both planes soon.

I want to get out and start playing some gigs on the guitar after the first of the year so that is going to keep me busy but my next RC project is a 1/6th scale Pica Waco YMF-3. Don Piatt, who taught me to fly many, many years ago, flew one of these over thirty years ago. These kits are not for the faint hearted or the novice builder. There is a LOT of wood. The wood is die crushed and it is not the best balsa. Much of it is very heavy where it doesn't need to be. I would love to redraw this thing in AutoCad and maybe stretch the scale up to 1/5. Pica made a 1/5 scale Waco but they are extremely hard to find and when you do find one, people are proud of them so they are expensive. If I draw the plane on AutoCad, I can set it for any scale I want and have a laser cutter cut all the parts. We'll see about that,,,,

YEA! Wings Ordered!

I ordered my wings today! YEA!!!!! More details to follow. I'm glad I got them before the 1st of the year price increase. These aren't mine but what they'll look like soon. There is a 3 month backlog but better than never!

Still Here Waiting to Order Wings

I haven't posted in a while or worked on the RV but I'm still here hoping to order the wings soon. This is a cash hobby and it has all gone to the dentist in the last two months. Those titanium posts aren't cheap and aren't covered by insurance!

Helped Norm install Wings on his RV-9A

Here's Norm's RV-9A that we just finished installing the wings. He invited me over both to help (it takes about 4 people) and to learn. It wasn't terribly hard but definitely one of those things where seeing it done was worth more than reading a 1000 pages of instructions.

Here's Norm and his wife Carol on the left and Phil the RV guru in the chair and Skip who's building an RV-6 taking pictures after installing the wings.

Norm was nice enough to give me his wing cradle after we finished. He (Carol) also fed us lunch. I think I got the best end of the deal. I've got to think of a good way to return the favor to Norm.

Plumbed for Air

Here, I've plumbed the aircraft factory (garage) for compressed air. It's both a convenience to have air outlets in more places and important to condition the air. Air compressors heat the air when compressing it. That causes problems because when the air cools, it condenses moisture which ends up inside tools or paint guns.

My solution to the moisture problem was to pipe the air through steel pipe which allows the air to cool and then give it a place to go before getting to the tools. I've got risers like the one pictured here that send the air up and the water down to a drain. Not real interesting but important for keeping rust out of your tools or spots out of your paint.

I promised my friend John that I'd help him with his layout for his garage so I annotated the pictures below and added an abbreviated description of what I did.

1. I used 3/4" galvanized steel piping for the perimeter and 1/2" for each drop leg. I tried to slope the pipe toward every drop to help control moisture. Water goes down, air goes up. On some of the drops, I just used a 3/4" Tee.

2. I used several unions in the perimeter piping. Unions allow you to disconnect the two pipes on either side of the union without turning either pipe to unscrew it. I was able to build the system in sections and put them up one section at a time. It really made it easier to trouble shoot leaks since I could just remove one section and work on it while leaving the rest in place.

3. The basic set-up of each drop is shown above. I used 1/2" unions on each branch-off from the drop to allow me to remove it without having to twist pipe. I used brass ball valves on the bottom of each drop as that's where the water will collect. On some of the drops, I added a male air fitting after the ball valve which allows me to add another compressor to the system. If you have a different size filter (3/8" is common), just change the reducer bushing and nipple coming out of the union to that size. On the branch above, I have an oiler in addition to the filter/regulator because this is the place I run most of my air tools. That saves me from having to remember to add oil drops to every tool before use. The other drops don't have an oiler.

4. I used Rector Seal #5 pipe thread sealant from Home Depot and teflon tape for every joint. I first wrapped the threads with teflon tape and then "painted" the Rector Seal over the teflon tape. I tried several variations and this way works best for me. I used a spray bottle with slightly soapy water to test all the joints and I don't get any leaks.

5. For my compressor hook-up, I just have a drop like shown above but instead of a filter, I have a short length of air hose that attaches to the reducer bushing on the union. By keeping all the drops standard, I can move the compressor or any fitting like the one with the oiler to any location in the garage I want by just disconnecting the union.

6. I have 5 drops in my system. I put the drop I plan on painting from on the last leg. My tool drop is the next to the last. When I bleed each drop, I get very little moisture after the first drop from the compressor which is the way it's supposed to work. There are fancier ways to do this but it works well for me. Some folks have a loop type arrangement at each drop where the pipe first goes up and then back around and down but I didn't have enough room against the wall plus it would add several additional joints for each drop.

Hope this helps, John.

Finished the Empennage

Well, I've finished the empennage, sort of. Just a few little details like trimming the counterweights to balance the elevators. I still have to do the fiberglass tips but most people wait to do all the fiberglass work together because of the mess. The wings are next and I've gotten the OK from my Chief Financial Officer to order them once I've gotten the Hardi siding for the house ordered.

Finished Trim Tab

Yea! I finished the trim tab version II. This one turned out much better. I hadn't planned on this being a "how to" blog but I learned so much and the trim tab turned out so good, I thought I'd share some of what I learned. This post may be a little jumbled as it will take me more than one sitting to put everything together.

You can stop reading now if you don't want the technical stuff. Here's what I learned to make a great trim tab:

1. Use hard wood. I used oak. I first tried pine and it wouldn't make a crisp bend.
2. Use a strong clamp. I used a Bessey parallel jaw woodworking clamp.
3. Make your jig from 1 inch nominal (3/4) stock. I first tried 1 1/2 in. stock and the extra width put a crease in the skin when clamping.
4. Use a back brace. You can see it in one of the pictures below. Basically, it kept the jig from sliding when using the rivet gun on the fold.
5. Use a protective strip when softly riveting the folds. I used a very thin strip of oak but something like formica would work well, too. You can see me using the strip in the last video below.

New (Used) Compressor

Finally, a quiet, powerful air compressor. Here's my newest addition to the aircraft factory tool crib. I found it on craigslist late Wednesday night. It was in San Antonio and very close to my Dad so I asked him to go by and look at it Thursday. It was owned by an older gentleman who appeared to have only used it a couple of times. The oil is still a golden color. I gladly paid $160 (sells new for around $500-$600 plus tax and shipping) for a belt driven, oil fed, cast iron twin cylinder, 5.5cfm @90psi, 115v, 20 gallon air compressor. That's about the biggest you can get and still run off household current. Any bigger and you'll need 220v. Now, I need some wings to drill and rivet to really put the compressor to the test.

Elevators Hung

I hung the elevators on the horizontal stabilizer to check for fit while I'm waiting on the replacement trim tab. There was a little trimming to fit required per the plans on the stab where the elevator horns swing. Also, I wanted to see a big airplane part. With the fiberglass tips, it's almost 9 feet wide. Cool, something that's starting to look like an airplane.

Ad for Van's RV-7 from Kitplanes Magazine

Here's an ad I saw in the most recent Kitplanes magazine. I liked the headline. Blazing trails is exciting but maybe not when it comes to answering the question, "will it fly?".

Elevator Riveting Help

I had some help today riveting the leading edges of the elevators. Here are nephews Spencer and Cameron with sister-in-law Jamie inspecting Cameron's riveting expertise. Looks great. Too bad it isn't cold as Cameron could wear his new letter jacket he got for varsity wrestling AS A FRESHMAN!

Here's Spencer pulling a cleco as he rivets the leading edge. Shelby and I got to watch him play in a select basketball tournament today. His Texas Tar Heels placed 3rd in Texas in the MAYB state tournament.

Ordered New Elevator Trim Tab

Dang...Dang...Dang. I said I wouldn't let perfect get in the way of very good and I've gone and done it. I've ordered a new elevator trim tab. I bent the elevator tabs and I let the edge hang over my workbench just slightly. When I clamped it down with my Bessey KR3 woodworking clamp (very high clamping pressure), I put a very slight bend near the edge. I can't measure it and can only see it in the right reflection but it really bothers me. I won't make that mistake again.

Bandsaw Part II

Help, I'm addicted to bandsaws. Or so you would believe if you listened to Paula and Austin. I just bought a used bandsaw off craigslist on Friday when I happened upon this one at Sears on Saturday. Returned but never used. Heavily marked down. I went out to the car where Paula and Austin were waiting and told them about the bargain. When I went back in to buy it, it had just been marked down further. I returned to the car with my bounty and told them about the extra markdown and they started laughing uncontrollably. Apparently, they had been making up stories about me being addicted to bandsaws and other such nonsense.

Well, I got the last laugh. I just sold the first bandsaw on craigslist today for more than I bought it. I showed them...ha..ha...ha. Wait, is that another bandsaw. I gotta' go!

Finished the Left Elevator

I finished the left elevator this morning. Sure was nice to get up early and not have to sweat through another 100+ degree evening in the garage. If you look closely in the reflection on the elevator, you can see Austin holding my laptop taking this picture. Next, the trim tab and I'll be through with the empennage except for the fiberglass tips.

New (Used) Bandsaw

Here's the latest addition to the aircraft factory tool crib. It's a used Delta 28-180 bandsaw I bought through craigslist from some nice people in Austin. I needed a bandsaw to cut the jig that's used to make the trim tab. I'll also use it to trim the lead counterweights in the elevators plus probably a thousand other uses. I'm going to San Antonio today to visit my Dad and we'll go to Woodcraft to get some ceramic blade guide blocks for the bandsaw. I'll also need to order a new blade or two. Otherwise, it's in pretty good shape and I like that it's not made in China.

Bent the Left Elevator Trim Tab Cutout

One of the harder things to do on the empennage is bending the side tabs on the trim tab. The first tabs to be bent are on the elevator cutout where the trim tab goes. I'm happy with the bend but even more so with the flush rivets. The plans call for pop-rivets which aren't flush and then caution about interference with the trim tab. Binding flight controls = bad. I thought, why not make them flush. I searched my main reference, vansairforce.com, and couldn't find anything except countersunk pop-rivets or cutting off the tabs and using riblets. After sleeping on it and checking all the angles, I couldn't see why it couldn't be done so I just did it. Turned out nice.

Yes, that's my reflection. My face is red because it's 100 degrees in the garage. I'm still using the camera in my laptop so I have to contort myself to get a good picture. It is nice, though, having the pictures easy to post plus I get good wireless reception in the garage so I can post immediately. I'd like to have a live webcam going when I wanted. That would be nerdy but cool.

Left Elevator Deburred, Dimpled and Primed

I got the left elevator deburred, dimpled and primed with a little help. Here's Shelby helping me deburr as my delayed Father's day present. She did a really good job deburring the inside of the skin. Much better than me.

Yes, we're inside. It has been too hot to do much in the garage so we carried one of the workbenches right into the living room. After Shelby and Paula left to go shopping, I brought my small pancake compressor inside and dimpled with the pneumatic squeezer while watching the movie Aliens. Don't tell the girls that I had much more fun than them! Later, Austin cleaned parts with MEK and primed them for his part of my delayed Father's day present. He was proud of his painting and for good reason. Loved all the help today.

Final Drilling Left Elevator Skin

All clecoed together and ready to final drill the left elevator skin. I got up early this morning to beat the heat. It's been over a hundred degrees almost every day for the last several weeks. The big odd shaped hole in the skin is for the inspection plate for the electric trim motor.

Happy Fourth of July

Happy fourth of July! I got my flag out early this morning. I feel very blessed to live in such a wonderful country. In the paper this morning, there is a full page ad paid for by Hobby Lobby. The title at the top is "In God We Trust". It's a collection of quotes about how America is a Christian nation. The sources for the quotes include presidents, founding fathers, Supreme Court Justices, congressional reports, Harvard and Yale, Supreme Court rulings and others. Here's a copy of the page from the Hobby Lobby website. I'm going to make sure I buy from Hobby Lobby.

Finished the Right Elevator

Here's the right elevator all finished except for rolling the leading edge which I'll do when I do the left elevator. I have been making good progress despite the lack of posting and the 100+ degree heat. My old laptop died which had the Sony software for easily importing pictures. This picture is from the webcam on my new HP laptop. Shelby held the laptop and clicked the picture capture. The skin from the left elevator is behind me on the workbench and I've already started on the understructure. Oh, and that's not a wrinkle in the skin, just a reflection of Paula's car.

New Sioux 1410 Pnuematic Drill

I finally got a Sioux 1/4 inch drill that I had been wanting. I got it on E-bay for $49! Used, of course, but it works great. The best price new I could find was $225. It's much quieter than my others so now our neighbor can't accuse me of torturing cats. NO, I never tortured cats. She just said from across the street, that's what my pneumatic drill sounded like.

Finishing Right Elevator

I've started the easy part, the final riveting of the right elevator. I haven't posted in a while because my laptop battery died. I do all the pictures from my laptop. Got a new one off ebay. I have been working on the plane, though. Since my last post I match drilled, deburred, scotch-brighted, dimpled, primed and reassembled the right elevator.

Right Elevator Match Drilling

Here's the right elevator clecoed together ready for match drilling the skin. That should only take 30 minutes and then it's on to the familiar pattern of deburring, dimpling, priming as required and reassembly for final riveting. I'm looking forward to using the pneumatic squeezer to dimple and rivet.

I mentioned (OK, I bragged) to Paula about how well things have been going together while I was showing her the trailing edge of the elevator below. She was thrilled, as those who know her could imagine. One thing that's surprised me about the build so far is how well the instructions from the manufacturer work. I made the bending brake exactly as described in Van's instructions and the trailing edge came our near perfect. I didn't make it like all the modified and improved versions I've seen on other's websites. I'm sure there are some great ideas out there but I will think long and hard before I deviate from Van's words of wisdom!

Elevator Trailing Edges Done

I finished bending the trailing edges of the elevators last night. It took me three days to bend the first one with all the careful measuring and reading and visiting websites to read about it and remeasuring, etc. The second one took 10 minutes. Life is kinda' like that. Once you've done it, it's easy.



NOT MUCH LEFT NOW! These are all the parts I have left to finish the entire empennage. I have to learn fiberglass for all the tips but most of the remaining work left to do is more of the same. Time to order the wings as there's an 8 week delivery time. I have to schedule an appointment with my aviation Financier.

Bending the Elevator Trailing Edges

After a little bit of a break working on the vehicle in the background (the famous Dodge Dart), I finally got my bending brake made for bending the trailing edges of the elevators. The hardest part was finding a straight board. I make sure I used plenty of hinges as I've read you can't have too many.

It's pretty simple, really. You just put the part between the boards and smoosh it. The trick is getting the correct radius of the bend. Too much and the aluminum will crack, too little and it will affect the flying qualities. I'm getting close to the goldilocks amount.

Finished Elevator Stiffeners

I finished riveting the stiffeners on the left and right elevators. The picture below is the inside of the right elevator. I haven't been posting much lately but I have been making progress. I always try and do at least something everyday even if it's just reading the plans or straightening up. Next, I'll make a bending brake to bend the trailing edge of the elevators. The plans call for 2 straight 2x8's with door hinges.

Here is the outside of the skin of one of the elevators after riveting the stiffeners. It's really easy to get a smooth rivet with the 3/4 inch plate steel back rivet plate I have.

Pneumatic Squeezer

Here's a new tool in the crib. It's a pneumatic squeezer. A member of Van's Airforce had it for sale at a good price and I was the first to grab it. I've been bidding on ebay for a year and probably bid on 30 of these looking for a steal. It's used but works well. Austin and I dimpled about 30 stiffeners in about 10 minutes. Paula and Shelby even gave it a try. Should be just the ticket to give my sore arm a rest.

RV Grin - First Flight in an RV

I got to fly an RV this weekend! Here's a picture of the plane I flew. That's Norm and his lovely bride.



Norm (he's the Tech Counselor who inspected my plane about a month ago) gave me a ride in the RV-7A that he built. He's an A&P certified mechanic and did a really beautiful job.

We flew for 40 minutes and I did 1 takeoff, 3 touch-and-go's, steep turns and stalls. It had been quite a while since I had flown so I was definitely rusty! I've landed on aircraft carriers and snow covered runways but this was the first time I've landed on a grass strip.

Norm said it would be a motivational flight and it really was. There's clearly a reason why the RV's are such an incredibly popular line of homebuilts. I don't have much small single time but I do have a little flight time in Cessnas and the RV felt like twice the airplane to me. I am certain now that I made the right choice of aircraft to build!

One thing that surprised me was how foreign the EFIS (Electronic Flight Information System) in Norm's RV felt. An EFIS is the computer screen that has replaced most of the older round gauges. I'm comfortable around computers and I've studied the EFIS and thought flying behind one would come naturally but I was wrong. My eyes kept going back to the "steam gauges" that Norm had left as backups. It will definately require some hanger flying to get comfortable with them. Here's an example of a popular EFIS.

Started Elevators

I started on the elevators. Here are the stiffeners being match drilled to the inside of the skins.

Elevator Stiffener Oops

I had a small setback when I trimmed three of the elevator stiffeners too short. I missed note 2 on the blueprints below and trimmed the distance "X" on note 1 from the next to the last hole. Note 2 said the last hole was not drilled until later. Dang! I was initially bummed when I went to order replacements but was happily surprised when the price was only $6.49 for the pack of 4. Way to go Van.

Added Drawers to Workbench

I added drawers to my workbench. The clear shoeboxes weren't working well as toolboxes and I had most of the material for drawers including the slides which are the expensive parts. These seem to be working well so far.

Elevators Next

Next up are the elevators. Below is the blueprint for the right elevator. It's built before the left elevator which has a trim tab making it more difficult.

The elevators are control surfaces like the rudder. They have thinner skins and light weight stiffeners. The flying surfaces that support the weight of the aircraft in flight like the horizontal and vertical stabilizers have thicker skins and heavier ribs. I've noticed that as the building has progressed, it's gotten more challenging. I guess Van wants to ease us into the hard stuff. Sounds kind of addicting, doesn't it?

Finished the Rudder

I finished the rudder today. Three components down, elevators left and that will finish the empennage. I don't want to think too far ahead but the wings will come next.

Here, I clamped the rudder to the workbench to get an idea of how big it is.

Finished the Trailing Edge of the Rudder

I'm not sure that this makes a good picture below. What I'm trying to show is the straightness of the trailing edge of the rudder. The instructions say this is one of the most difficult parts to get right. One of my friends actually ordered and built a second rudder to get it right. I have to admit that I'm not completely satisfied with my work. I'm trying hard not to let perfect get in the way of excellent but it's not easy. The rudder is certainly built within specs and all and I'm sure I'll forget about the small appearance flaws but things were going near perfect up until now.

Here's the rudder all riveted. The only thing left besides the fiberglass tips is to roll the leading edge.